Okey: so you’re bored of tavla?

Have you ever passed an attraction in Istanbul, or (insert famous place) in your hometown that you’ve never been to and thought “Hmm, I really should go there, you know, while I’m living here…Eh, one of these days”? That’s how I felt every time I passed an Okey salonu (Okey room)…

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The Clouds Cleared, and Pride Shined Through

Carrying their pride: walking toward Cihangir…and a TOMA (water cannon). I was in a buoyant mood on Sunday afternoon; buoyed with patriotism from the news of the past week: marriage equality, Obamacare stand…

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8 ways Portugal and Turkey are alike

The saudade/hüzünlü octopus, by Rukiye Uçar. We crave you, we miss you, we yearn for you Your eight legs of heaven Portuguese octopus! Jump in some rice or olive oil for us –Zeynep & Ezra Seems like we a…

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How to Marry a Turk

Editor’s Note: This post is intended for Americans marrying Turkish citizens in a belediye nikah salonu (municipal wedding hall) in Istanbul. For other nationalities, other cities in Turkey, or if you want your wedding officiated offsite, kolay gelsin, I have little experience, b…

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The Frontier Carnival

The Xanthi Carnival parade man isn’t holding a bag. It’s the traditional musical instrument “Gaida”. It’s a bagpipe, an airtight bag of sheepskin or goatskin. He is “just a fat Greek old guy who is drinking alcohol, ea…

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