Tag Archives: turkey

I Met Dad!

ezra mannix and zeynep senturk

From now on I can steal these kisses anywhere! (Without the red wine in hand, perhaps.)

Once I had a girlfriend in the States whom I had met one October. The December of that same year, we went to her parent’s house out of town and met her parents and her little brother. That night I stayed in her room, in the same bed with her. We had no intention of marrying.

I repeat: I stayed in the same house…while her parents were down the hall!…., slept in the same bed and woke up the next morning with no bullet holes in me, no angry cousins waiting around the corner to beat me to a pulp – not a scratch on my carriage. In fact, her mother even made breakfast.

That seems unusual, almost unthinkable to me now – at my ripe 31 years of age no less.

I’ve lived in Turkey for a long time.

I share this tidbit because my beautiful girlfriend and I recently took a first formal step to marriage and had dinner, together with her family, in her family’s home on the Asian side of Istanbul. It was not only my first time meeting her father, it was the first time I had set foot inside the house where the love of my life has been living for a good chunk of her life.

Zeynep and I have been together for 14 months.

It was a relatively modern and low-key affair on that recent late winter evening at the Senturk residence. A delicious dinner of kereviz (celery with walnut and yogurt) salad and chicken with soft jasmine rice was served, a Turkish national soccer match was watched (Turkey beat the tiny principality of Andorra 2-0), delicious out of season fruit was consumed, cay was drunk.

Her father’s name is Ahmet, a name so mainstream its practically ironic (Americans have John and Mary, Turks have Ayse and Ahmet). A smallish man, but tough without an ounce of fat on his frame, Ahmet picks his words carefully. Like me, he is a bit tough to read. He is a warm Anatolian, but never too far from dumping a young man’s body in the Bosphorus if he lays a hand on one of his daughters.

However, the interrogation from father wasn’t as tense as I thought. Sure there were questions about my family, what my father does, where exactly I am from, what I do, where I do my banking, what I think was the real reason behind Sept. 11, etc. But the hardened dad actually cracked a couple smiles before the night was through. The evening ended amicably.

The proverbial application form is in and chances of being a member of the Senturk club were looking good as I headed for the door. I experienced for the 985th time the Turkish tradition of the whole family/friend group coming to the door to stand not three feet away while I put on my shoes, watching with love as if I were a Panda giving birth at the zoo. I had a couple of homemade gul boregi to take home with me for breakfast the next morning

I also carried with me a sense of accomplishment on the jerky minibus ride home that rainy night. A sense that you have to earn the trust of your woman not only as an individual, but also as a member of a family with all her sacred bonds that entails.

It’s a link to another time, but with a modern twist. In fact, the family is modern and secular by any Turkish yardstick, yet Turkish is Turkish, and being embraced by all family members is never something to take for granted.

By comparison, our family units are like loose affiliations,  chambers of commerce of individuals bounded by love, gloriously free to choose their own lives, but sometimes limited in terms of the support and the “reach out and touch someone” factor the members give and receive. I speak not of my own family, for I have been blessed, but I make a sweeping cultural generalization.

The day will come when I can get overnight privileges at their home. Until then the acceptance process has gotten started – and the fun is just getting started.

Gentlemen with a Turkish wife, feel free to add your stories.

Tagged , , ,

Love Being a Basket Case

Two cold Efes beers make the trip up about 75 feet.

One of the unfortunate truths about living in a 21st century metropolis is the disconnect we have from our natural environment, ergo, we buy our vegetables from a store, we exercise in planned parks or gyms, we travel by various modes of transportation that all involve high levels of engineering, or at least cement under our feet.

Istanbul is no exception. One nice thing about Istanbul, though, that makes me feel more like I’m living as a fairy tale serf on a European farm is the sepet – or basket, in English. We live on the 4th floor (or fifth floor by American measurement). When we need something from a street seller, or a corner-store owner, or a delivery guy on a motor scooter, we can simply lower a wicker basket connected to a rope, down the 75 feet or so, to the street level (careful, don’t get rope burn!).

The seller/vendor takes the money for the simit (Turkish bagel), poaca (flaky pastry) beer (beer), kebap, etc., that is in the basket, and replaces it with said product, sometimes with a shout of “afiyet olsun!” (bon appétit). Then, arm over arm, we lift the food or booze up back through our window.

It’s ironic that this measure of extreme convenience (or sometimes plain laziness) actually makes me feel old world.  I think it has to do primarily for the hand-over-hand raising of the basket, which somehow reminds me of drawing water from a covered well, Jack and Jill style, to satiate my hunger or thirst. I feel as though I am working to draw some bounty from the earth, not unlike picking a carrot, or mining for some granite, even though I am lowering a basket bought at an Ikea-type store, down to a guy who puts whatever I am getting into a plastic bag. That thing I am buying may be made at some factory bakery or brewing conglomerate. But no matter.

Maybe this is why we have tatilsepeti.com (“vacation basket,” the owners of which I give English lessons to) and yemeksepeti.com (food basket) an online restaurant delivery site.

No wonder Turks have baskets on the brain.

Tagged ,

Hospitality, Hitchhiking and History in Northwest Anatolia

I thought about how I ought to blog about this trip: whether I ought to just recount the places I had been and things that I learned about Turkish history, culture, etc., or whether I should include what truly ended up making the trip special. I will choose the latter.

Tagged

More Pumped Over Futbol

I wanna flare!

I wanna flare!

Last night Beşiktaş fans took to the streets and celebrated their teams Turkish Super Lig cup victory. Coincidentally, the last time Beşiktaş won was 2003, the last time I was here. Another coincidence: there mascot is a BALD EAGLE! American spies?

The flag waving, standing through sunroofs, flare lighting, shouting “Beyaz” “Siyah” (white, black) reminded me just how unpumped American sports fans are when their team wins the Super Bowl, NBA finals, or what have you. For such a sports obsessed country where millions analyze statistics in fantasy leagues and read every article on their favorite stars’ accomplishments, there doesn’t seem to be a lot of outward passion.

Sure, there is horn honking and the occasional overturned car in cities that win titles, but we don’t think of too many creative cheers or clever chants to make rooting a real interactive sport. The closest thing we have is college football, for which fans sing fightsongs.Here it is TRIBAL!

I could be wrong…Discuss…

PS. My team is Galatasaray. Oops.

Tagged ,

Arrived in Istanbul

Hey everybody! Its been a few minutes since I rapped at you, but I wanted to throw out a hearty “Merhaba” from Istanbul!

Being here again after six years is like having a good recurring dream that hasn’t recurred in a long time. The places look oddly familiar, the people do to, and the hills are just as tough on the calves as ever.

The slightly melancholy feeling of the city, combined with the tremendous hospitality of people I just met, such as the young Turkish guy who works at this hostel I am blogging from, make this town something of a continual enigma, unable to fit neatly into categories. Even the climate is such: Is it Mediterranean or temperate? The wishy-washy spring temps add to this identity crisis.

People have been telling me that picking up and moving here is “adventurous.” I am grateful for all the well wishes. It makes me wonder, though, about what being adventurous is. My friend in Portland mentioned that he would like to buy an old house there and fix it up. To me, that is very brave, somthing I would be very intimidated by. THAT is very adventurous in its own right. It takes commitment, patience, a desire to explore an unknown corner of the world, and even a bit of soul searching.

If I move to a city I have been to a few times, get a 9 to 5 job teaching a language I am fluent in, go home to an apartment and kick back with a friend and a beer. Is that an adventurous lifestyle? I suppose a lot of it is in the spinning.

But I hope to do some traveling, and some things I have never done, such as visit eastern Europe (Turkey borders Bulgaria, and places like Croatia and Hungry are not far away). There are still broader horizons to be sought, but learning to speak Turkish fluently and plunge back into the culture. Learning a language like Turkish is an adventure in its own right. Right?

Stay tuned for a post from what I hope will be my new apartment!

Tagged ,