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Uncategorized | Ezra Mannix | Page 9

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Remembering Where I’m From

Pamukkale Ezra Aletta

The mutant seagulls of Istanbul are shrieking for just one on the top floor of my Kurtulus apartment tonight. My sister went home on an early morning flight from Ataturk Airport. The heat has yet to work in my room and it feels like camping in the high Cascades in the fall months.

Nevertheless, I feel quite satisfied. Thanks to my sister, Aletta, and the great visit we had, I remember where I came from. When your professional life is in flux and you feel like you are making it up as you go along, when you have no significant other and you are in a foreign country where the language feels like the wall at a marine corps boot camp. When winter settles in that said foreign country and your Jewish mother is in the back of your head telling you need to buy more warm clothes, it’s nice to remember where you come from.

Family clears the picture, helps you remember that no matter how you are constantly forging into the future.  You loved the show “You Can’t Do That on Television” when you were in the second grade, you love to make harmless fun of your idiosyncratic, East European

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At the Aya Sofya Mosque in Istanbul

mother, you enjoy passing the time catching up on those people who you both know – from the distant or recent past. It’s nice to jar loose from the molasses of time those insight jokes that you used to laugh at when you are kids, and it’s nice to make new ones too. For a short time at least, you don’t have to rely on building up cadres of mutual contacts with newer friends so that you can occupy conversations that are so important to new friendships. You remember that family life is about weaving all the threads of shared human contacts with mutual loved ones.

Aletta was here for two weeks. The first few days were spent here in the big bad Bul (Istanbul). Check out her excellent blog here for more on the amazing things we did, I am not going to rehash them here. We then took a trip within a trip to the south Turkish coast Kusadasi before turning inland to get a taste of “ic Anadolu” (inner Anatolia), Pamukkale, Konya, Sirince, Cappadocia, Selcuk. Not in that order.

The trip gave me a certain previously unknown pleasure: that of the Sherpa. Usually I feel like it’s my “place” to be the one taking notes, waxing poetical about whatever new place I am in. I am always this introspective “artist” just waiting to hatch from my shell was my station in life. But this trip has reinforced a new part of myself that I have only recently been exploring in my professional life: that of the teacher, the guide, the one who shows, the (hopefully) modest leader to let the other explore and get enlightened, and gain the satisfaction of knowing that I helped them become a better person than they were, a more enlightened person, and maybe something will be amazing from that, more amazing than what I could achieve just pushing the gears in my mind to somehow add to the world’s creative output.

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Our warm host in Selcuk, Uygur, took us to his relative's cozy wine cellar in the picturesque Aegean village of Sirince

It’s nothing new, being a guide, being a teacher. The reward of being a successful teacher is as old as the human race. It doesn’t take away from the joy of sharing Turkey with my sister.  As I settle back in to my routine here on the European side of Istanbul – and though I miss the prospect of Thanksgiving stateside – I have the satisfaction of knowing that no matter how far I am in my travels, family is not so far away.

Bless the modern era.

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Budapest the Best

The Budapest Great Synagogue is perhaps the world's most beautiful.

The Budapest Great Synagogue is perhaps the world's most beautiful. A moving sight for me.

Budapest is backpacker fun. Budapest has lots of history. Yay. These truisms are about as well worn as the goat pen at a petting zoo…

If it was the new friends who made my Northwest Anatolia trip so special, it was seeing two old friends who made my recent five-day trip to Budapest so memorable. These friends were also international students in Ankara: my Danish friend Jakob, who was in town at the same time for an engineering conference (he is a chemical engineer), and my friend Kate, a Hungarian who used to live in Ankara because her mother worked at the Hungarian embassy there.

Now Kate had to be in the village where she also lives and where the school is, so she could prepare for the upcoming school year, so I had to stay at the authentically named Hungarian hostel, Casa de la Musica, for the first three nights.

The first two evenings I meandered the streets of Buda (the hilly side with the castle, think fairy tale Europe crossed with middle class suburb) and Pest (the flat side with most of the museums and nightlife) with Jakob after his daytime conference activities were finished, the last two days I stayed with Kate in her apartment on the Buda side. The cool thing about staying with a local at the end of a trip, as I did, was that I was able to familiarize myself with the city with fresh, traveller’s eyes.

Jakob and I on the Chain Bridge

Jakob and I on the Chain Bridge

I hit the biggies before that though, straight tourist style:  the fine arts museum, the Museum of Terror (not torture! This one is about the mass interrogations and imprisonments carried about by the Nazi puppet government and, after the war, the Soviet-styled regime, a must see!), Fisherman’s Bastion, the Opera House, Andriy Avenue (their Champs Elysee), etc., and – of course – a traditional Hungarian bath.

The cool topper to the trip was going around with Kate the last two days. Kate is an English teacher in a traditional Hungarian high school. The students learn traditional arts and crafts such as felt making.  She knows what a

Chain Bridge at night

Chain Bridge at night

traditional Hungarian house looks like and why they are built that way, which came in handy when we went to the nearby village of Szentendre, she also led me to possibly the finest Langos (friend dough) place in the country, a hole in the wall I would not have found on my own!

Check out the rest of the photos here.

Hospitality, Hitchhiking and History in Northwest Anatolia

I thought about how I ought to blog about this trip: whether I ought to just recount the places I had been and things that I learned about Turkish history, culture, etc., or whether I should include what truly ended up making the trip special. I will choose the latter.

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Be More Like the French

french waiterNotorious for their insistence that tourists and expats speak their tongue, the French do help their visitors do one thing: help them learn the language more effectively by allowing learners to walk on the hot coals of their learned tongue.  This isn’t their conscious aim of course, that would be cultural pride, mainly.

But in trying to be helpful and friendly, noble aims as they are, the Turks – by eagerly using English — prevent me from stumbling, bumbling through explaining problems. In Istanbul especially, where lots of young people speak the language, people will sometimes ruch to your aid at a store or restaurant, or the clerk himself will insist on using his limited English, which is usually worse than my Turkish. So a kind of silent language war ensues.

Take an example at a Turkish meze (tapas) restaurant recently, I was with a Dutch friend (who doesn’t speak any Turkish), and I was trying to explain that we had ordered one other meze that the waiter had not delivered yet. It is called ezme salata, or just ezme for short, and it is pureed tomato paste with spices and oil in it. I forgot that it was called ezme, so I was trying to describe that it was a spicy tomato dish, like a sauce. A young man, who likely was trying to impress his date, jumped in and said “let me help you!” and proceeded to tell the waiter that it was ezme.

I found myself actually filled with anger despite the fact that he was trying to help (and smugly trying to impress his date at the same time). It was probably wrong of me, but I didn’t even thank him for his help, I just continued looking at my dish, while my polite friend – free of the same complex as me – thanked him for his help. I wanted to bark at him: “Thanks, but I really would rather practice my Turkish if you don’t mind. Jesus!” But I kept silent.

I bet this is a problem well-intentioned, non-French speaking tourists WISH they had in Paris.

Bulgaria: Don’t Knock It Til You Try It

I sat on the empty platform waiting for the train to take me back to Plovdiv. The day was brutally hot, with a high of at least 40 degrees. Across the rusty train tracks overgrown with weeds were dilapidated, Communist.-era industrial buildings that sweated rust in the waning evening sun. I had been in Bulgaria for more than 24 hours, and yet that was the first time I had seen before me an industrial landscape that so perfectly fit my preconceived notions of what a post-Communist, Eastern European country should look like.