Carrying their pride: walking toward Cihangir…and a TOMA (water cannon).
I was in a buoyant mood on Sunday afternoon; buoyed with patriotism from the news of the past week: marriage equality, Obamacare standing pat. I hadn’t felt that proud for America in a long time, and I was transferring that pride to my adopted second home, Turkey, looking forward to the 20,000-plus in attendance for what was billed the biggest Pride parade to ever take place in the Muslim world. It was a glorious, not-too-hot summer day in Istanbul. Breezes from the Black Sea, good vibes…. Then…
“Don’t go!” my wife messaged me as the Metrobus groaned and galloped over the Bosphorus Bridge.
They were shutting Pride down, the parade, Istiklal Caddesi, everything, she wrote. Flashing to the event page on Facebook, I found frantic “iyi misiniz, arkadaslar?” (“Are you ok, friends?”) posts and comments on the actions of the police, who were not allowing the protestors to go to the main promenade.
Tear gas, rubber bullets — memories of 24 months ago flashed in my mind.
Back to real world of self expression in Turkey.
Revelers move to Cihangir
Defiant, I went there anyway. I was too late for the water cannons and rubber bullets. Probably for the best.
Pride shines through the darkness
By the time I exited the metro station at Taksim, the cops had already formed a human chain around the Ataturk victory statue in Taksim Square and Istiklal Caddesi. The atmosphere was decidedly non-festive. People, however, were funneling down Siraselviler Caddesi, so I followed them, toward Cihangir, the indomitable bastion of progressive Istanbul, right?
What I found was not defeated protestors cursing the police, more like season veterans clearing their throats of tear gas residue — and then, smiling, defiant revelers.
What I found in the central Cihangir square in front of Firusaga Camii was smiling faces, signs saying “get used to us, we’re here!” “there ARE trans women!” Chanting. Singing. Jumping up and down.
…not before being sealed out of Taksim Square by a human police chain.
Walking down the avenues, I saw blond tourists from Europe, couples meandering the streets, students — including one from the conservative university where I work — music (yes, “It’s raining men!” played at one point, stoking memories of countless parties from my 20’s), great costumes, people from all walks of life.
While it all made me realize how far Turkey has to go before catching up to Europe and the U.S. when it comes to marriage equality, there was a victory of another sort in Istanbul on Sunday. You won’t read about it in the headlines, and rightfully so: canceling an approved parade for no discernible reason is wrong, and Al Jazeera, CNN, etc., were right to put it on their homepages.
But the less reported story, which made me smile, was that pride won.
In Turkey, it’s always 2 steps forward, 1.8 steps back with these sorts of things. But that tiny step kept Istanbul’s link to the biggest civil rights movement of our time alive and smiling.
Indomitable Cihangir, Indomitable Istanbul, Indomitable Pride.
Reveling
Great piece Ezra. We got there just in time to be boxed in on Istiklal. We had more than our fair share of water cannon, tear gas (at least three times) and those paint-ball pellets they were using. We went the opposite way to you, down to Tunel. When we got there, the police and Toma were preparing for a fight, but they suddenly upped and left! Around the corner from the face-off, we found a street party in full swing, and full to over-flowing with happy faces… We stayed for about two more hours before heading home, and after learned that the police and Toma returned to “clear the street”.
After what felt like a bad (and wet and choking) start, the day was one to behold. The love and friendship that radiated the whole crowd was simply amazing 🙂
Thanks a lot for your comment Steev! I am glad you got to see a good amount of smiles and positive outcomes on the day.
Yes, quite a week– 2 weeks. The good guys didnt win every Supreme Court decision, but enough of the major ones. On Affordable Care Act, the interesting thing has been Roberts’ change over the several decisions from grudging-approval-on-tecnicalities to enthusiastic-embracing….. The upshot on gay marriage has been several rural-South counties suspending all marriage license issuing…. There was minor mention of tear gas and rubber bullets in Istanbul on CNN… Mostly its been the escaped then killed/captured inmates in New York, the Greeks, US women’s soccer, and somebody or other’s Hollywood split-up.